The TR-109 Picorder 2 project aims to develop and produce a portable, self contained, Raspberry Pi based sensor data acquisition platform.
It is the successor to the original Picorder. Originally the projects goal was to make a single Tricorder replica, but the Picorder 2 project has slowly become more of a set of standards for the Picorder family of devices I want to make.
Latest update: Got the envirophat working until I can design a sensor board that fits the project. Mainboard is wired up but does not meet requirements for fit with main body. Pi is held too high using 90° header. Probably will have to wire in place.
- Finalize Enclosure
- Finalize Components
- Finalize Software
Picorder 2 will use PicorderOS a python library that unifies a number of different modules under a custom user interface.
Custom PCBs are being designed and will soon begin prototyping stages:
Connects to the display, supports the button inputs pcb, main indicator LEDs and other items on the main body.
- Raspberry Pi Zero W
- My old favourite will return for this model. Power consumption was a MAJOR problem with the first Picorder, I have found a really good article on some ways to reduce power consumption. I am playing with the idea of using something like an arduino or just an ATTINY, but the Pi has so many advantages.
Basic ambient environmental; temperature, pressure, humidity and VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds). Ranged line-of-sight temperature sensing (very small envelope. 0°c to 80°c). Magnetometer, maybe something like spectroscope if I can find one that works. Electromagnetic interference of a very arbitrary envelope could be displayed using some kind of ADC and an antenna.
- Bm860 VOC, Temp, Humidity, Pressure sensor
- The BME680 is a basic environmental sensor. VOC is a nice added feature. This sensor will provide ambient environmental information. I've found a good guide for how to connect it to a Pi.
- I was turned onto the idea of an 8 gas sensor by the ODROID-GO Ticorder project where they used this IC to measure carbon minoxide, nitrogen dioxide, hydrogen, ammonia, methane, propane, and iso-butane. I found a great blogpost on some ways to use it. Because it is an analog sensor I would need to use an ADC and some way to connect it to the Pi.
- AMG8833 IR Thermal Camera
- This is a VERY low resolution and low range thermal camera. It will basically only be useful for detecting dramatic temperature differences. It was relatively cheap so I want to include it. This sensor will provide inaccurate CONTEXTUAL temperature information at range.
- MLX90614 Non Contact Thermometer
- A cheap and accessible non contact thermometer. This sensor provides accurate specific temperature readings at range. I've managed to find Adafruits own circuitpython implementation and this page looks fruitful too.
- An EMF sensor of some kind.
- Probably a resistor on an ADC to give me basic environmental electrical readings. I found this site that shows you how you can use at AT tiny as an i2c device, which I could use with this guide to make a small EMF detector to read low frequency interference.
Picorder 2 will officially support a standardized 3D printed enclosure. This file will likely be included with picorderOS software. The case is designed to be several pieces that fasten together.
The current design of the Picorder 2 shell incorporates a main body and chassis with a lower door. All of the major components are housed in the main body with the lower door being used for extra buttons and battery storage. The mainboard PCB is attached to the chassis, along with the Raspberry Pi, the sensor board and all internal lighting. The chassis slides in and out of the main body on tracks, and is secured to the main body with 4 M2 screws.
Before I decided to use a 3D printed enclosure there were two "off the shelf" options that seemed suitable for the shell
- Mark 7 Tricorder Replica
- I've acquired a prop replica kit for the mark 7 tricorder from Stapleton Productions.
- 1993 Playmates Tricorder Toy
- For the prototype, this is easy to get and modify.
And I hope to be able to maintain support for those ideas as I continue developing the P2.
- MPR121 Capacitive Touch Buttons
- Controller to use small metal pads for capacitive buttons for inputs. I found a good guide and software info for the Pi here.
There are two main display targets for this project.
The premium version is this colour screen:
- Generic ST7735 LCD Display
- In applications where power isn't as critical a screen like this can provide full colour rich interface. Use of this screen can be facilitated by specifically pushing data to this screen using the Luma python module (more work but perhaps less processor intensive) or by using FBTFT to use it as a display target (requires additional software modifications, but allows for generic computing functions to be displayed). The display I found (pictured) had no pins listed as MOSI or MISO (for SPI) but I found a pin chart in the Luma docs that helped.
And then a low cost low power monochrome screen:
- Nokia 5110 LCD screen
- To provide low power information output to the user, and maybe to play some snake. I looked in a number of places to find a good guide on how to connect the Adafruit part I have with various descriptions around the web. I found this guide to have some important information, but the wiring information seemed incorrect. This guide lays out how to connect the screen properly..
As with the original picorder I want to make sure that this one has a feel of the actual prop. the TOS tricorder only had 3 indicator lights but the TNG tricorder is lit up like a christmas tree.
I'm going to try and include at the very least:
- the four green indicator lights (alpha, beta, delta, gamma)
- the front panel sensor array (the green ripple lights, the various and sundry sensor illuminations)
- the EMRG button
- the PWR button.
- GEO, MET, BIO buttons.
ALPHA BETA DELTA GAMMA
Its always perplexed me that these indicator lights seem to ripple (light up and turn off one after the other) in different directions depending on the season of TNG you're watching.
It makes sense to me that the LEDs on the Tricorder should ripple from top to bottom (alpha to gamma).
I have read (somewhere) that the TNG Tricorder lights were changed by a prop maker to run in the opposite direction only so they could tell when their work was being used on screen.
I think in the interest of reducing processing load on the Pi I will just use the Pi as a clock and pulse a GPIO pin high and low to a number of decade counters to control the "look and feel" LEDS.
This project is a "MyCorder" build and so I'm using this subreddit to solicit advice from the community.